“Traditionally, our best practice in delivering ingredients to skin is to solubilize them, and water can dissolve a large amount of vitamin C.”įinding a waterless way to solubilize ascorbic acid, Baek said, was a puzzle that took him over two years to solve. It’s sensitive to light, air and water,” said Paul Baek, founder of Matter of Fact, which launched its Ascorbic Acid 20 Brightening C Serum on Sept. “Vitamin C, in its biologically active form, is one of the most researched ingredients. When it was sitting on a shelf and the consumer didn’t get it for three months, that’s what I was uncomfortable with.” “We did some internal testing, even with color change, it was active for up to six months. “Filling orders on a monthly basis was big for us as we were trying to control the freshness, and we always made sure to tell the consumer not to stock up on it,” Masterson said. It is now sold for $78 in Drunk Elephant’s full distribution network, which includes Sephora and Ulta, and has a shelf life of up to three years. Renamed C-Firma Fresh Day Serum, the product is meant to be mixed ahead of first usage to retain its efficacy. The reimagined product now includes a two-part product: in the powdered form of ascorbic acid, as well as a separate vial of the formula’s liquid components. “But vitamin C, or more specifically, ascorbic acid, which is the gold standard, is a whole other level of sensitivity due to its environment.” “Most actives are delicate to a degree - retinol and peptides can also be tricky to work with - especially when they’re in higher concentrations,” Masterson said. In tandem with its introduction into Ulta Beauty last month, Masterson took the opportunity to update the serum’s formulation and packaging to improve the potency of its hero ingredient. “Consumers are turning to the internet to figure out whether they should be integrating vitamin C into their daily routines.”įor Tiffany Masterson, founder of Shiseido-owned Drunk Elephant, her brand’s global expansion paved the way to address stability concerns around its C-Firma Day Serum, one of the brand’s hero stock keeping units and a stalwart since it launched. “Despite being such a mainstream ingredient, consumer search behavior indicates that there are concerns,” she said. Horwitz added that while interest remains high, consumer education has given credence to concerns about skin irritation and negative side effects.
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